Hey there, fellow rider! So, you’ve got a 2007 Honda Goldwing, and you need to transport it safely? I’ve been there. The Goldwing is a beast of a motorcycle—luxurious, heavy, and built for the open road. But when it comes to hauling it on a trailer or in a truck bed, tying it down properly is a must. I’ve moved my own Goldwing across states for rallies and trips, and I’ve learned the hard way what works and what doesn’t. Let me walk you through how to tie down your 2007 Honda Goldwing for transport. By the end, you’ll feel confident that your bike is secure and ready for the journey.
I’ve hauled my Goldwing through rain, wind, and scorching heat, tweaking my tie-down setup each time. This guide is packed with everything I’ve picked up over the years, from choosing the right straps to avoiding damage to your bike’s fancy chrome. Whether you’re a first-time hauler or a seasoned rider looking to refine your technique, I’ve got you covered. Let’s get your Goldwing strapped down safely and hit the road!
Why Proper Tie-Down Matters
When I first started transporting my Goldwing, I thought a couple of cheap straps would do the trick. Big mistake. Halfway through a trip, I noticed my bike shifting on the trailer. My heart sank. A poorly secured Goldwing can tip over, get scratched, or worse, damage its suspension. This bike weighs around 900 pounds, so you need a setup that keeps it rock-solid.
Proper tie-downs protect your investment. The 2007 Goldwing is a premium touring bike with a sleek fairing, comfy seats, and delicate electronics. A bad tie-down job can dent panels or stress the frame. It also ensures safety on the road. An unsecured bike can shift during transport, causing accidents. Taking the time to do it right gives you peace of mind and keeps your Goldwing pristine.
Tools and Gear You’ll Need
Before you start, gather the right gear. I’ve tried cutting corners with subpar straps, and it’s not worth the risk. Here’s what I use to tie down my Goldwing:
- Ratchet Straps: Get four heavy-duty straps with a minimum 1,500-pound breaking strength. I prefer 1-inch-wide braided nylon straps for durability.
- Soft Loops: These protect your bike’s finish by looping around handlebars or forks. I use four soft loops to avoid scratching the chrome.
- Wheel Chock: A front wheel chock keeps the bike upright. I love my Condor chock—it’s sturdy and easy to use.
- Microfiber Towels: Wrap these around contact points to prevent scratches.
- Bungee Cords: Handy for securing loose ends or extra gear.
- Trailer or Truck Bed: Ensure it’s rated to handle the Goldwing’s weight plus gear.
Optional but helpful: tie-down brackets designed for Goldwings. These bolt onto the frame for secure anchor points. I added a set to my bike, and they make strapping down easier.
Here’s a quick table of the essentials:
| Item | Purpose | Recommended Specs |
|---|---|---|
| Ratchet Straps | Protect the bike’s finish | 1,500-lb strength, 1-inch wide |
| Soft Loops | Keep bthe ike upright | Durable nylon, 4 pieces |
| Wheel Chock | Sturdy, fits a 17-inch front wheel | Keep the ike upright |
| Microfiber Towels | Prevent scratches | Soft, non-abrasive |
| Bungee Cords | Secure loose items | Medium-duty |
Preparing Your 2007 Honda Goldwing
Before loading your Goldwing, prep it to avoid damage. I learned this after almost scratching my fairing during a rushed setup. Here’s my routine:
- Clean the Bike: Wash your Goldwing to remove dirt. This makes it easier to spot scratches later.
- Turn Off Electronics: Disconnect the battery or turn off the ignition. The 2007 model has sensitive electronics, and you don’t want them draining.
- Check Fuel Level: Keep the tank below half-full to reduce weight and prevent leaks. I once overfilled and had a messy cleanup.
- Put It in Gear: Leave the bike in first gear to prevent rolling. I also set the parking brake for extra security.
- Remove Accessories: Take off saddlebags, windshields, or anything loose. I store mine in a padded bag to avoid scratches.
- Inspect the Bike: Check for loose parts or damage. This helps you know what condition it’s in before transport.
Prepping takes 15 minutes but saves headaches. Your Goldwing is ready to load once it’s clean and secure.
Loading the Goldwing Onto the Trailer
Loading a 900-pound bike sounds intimidating, but I’ve done it solo many times. The key is patience and the right setup. Here’s how I load my 2007 Goldwing:
- Position the Trailer: Park on flat ground and chock the trailer wheels. I use a level to ensure it’s stable.
- Set Up Ramps: Use sturdy, wide ramps rated for the Goldwing’s weight. I prefer aluminum ramps for grip.
- Align the Wheel Chock: Place the chock at the front of the trailer. It’ll hold the bike once loaded.
- Ride or Push: If you’re confident, ride the bike up the ramp in first gear, using low throttle. I usually push mine with a buddy’s help—it’s safer for me. Keep the bike centered and straight.
- Secure in Chock: Roll the front wheel into the chock until it locks. My Condor chock grabs the tire firmly.
Take your time here. Rushing can lead to a dropped bike, and trust me, that’s a nightmare. Once the Goldwing is in the chock, you’re ready to tie it down.
Tying Down the Front End
The front end is where most of the bike’s weight sits, so it needs to be rock-solid. I’ve refined my front tie-down method over the years of trial and error. Here’s how I do it:
- Locate Anchor Points: On the 2007 Goldwing, the lower triple tree (where the forks meet the frame) is ideal. Avoid handlebars—they can bend under pressure. If you have tie-down brackets, use those.
- Attach Soft Loops: Loop a soft loop around each side of the lower triple tree. I wrap a microfiber towel around the loop for extra protection.
- Connect Straps: Hook a ratchet strap to each soft loop. Run the other end to the trailer’s front corners, pulling slightly forward and outward. This compresses the front suspension evenly.
- Tighten Straps: Ratchet both straps gradually, alternating sides. Compress the front suspension about 30-40%. Don’t over-tighten—it can stress the forks. I check that the bike stays upright in the cradle.
This setup keeps the front end stable and protects the bike’s finish. Double-check the straps for slack before moving on.
Securing the Rear End
The rear end keeps the Goldwing from swaying or tipping. I used to skip rear straps, thinking the front was enough. Then a bumpy road taught me otherwise. Here’s my rear tie-down process:
- Find Anchor Points: The 2007 Goldwing’s frame is tricky due to plastic panels. Remove the side covers (two screws each) to access the frame near the passenger footpegs. Alternatively, use the passenger grab handles, but they’re less ideal.
- Use Soft Loops: Loop a soft loop around each frame point or grab handle. Add microfiber towels to prevent scratches.
- Attach Straps: Hook ratchet straps to the soft loops. Run them to the trailer’s rear corners, pulling slightly backward and outward.
- Tighten Straps: Ratchet the straps evenly, compressing the rear suspension slightly. The bike should feel balanced, not leaning. I aim for just enough tension to prevent movement.
The rear straps counterbalance the front, keeping the bike steady. Check all straps again after tightening.
Double-Checking Your Setup
I can’t stress this enough: always double-check. I once hit the road without inspecting my straps, and a loose one nearly caused trouble. Here’s my checklist:
- Test Stability: Push the bike gently side-to-side. It should feel solid with no wobble.
- Inspect Straps: Look for fraying, loose hooks, or slack. Tighten if needed.
- Check Suspension: The front and rear should be slightly compressed but not bottomed out.
- Secure Loose Ends: Tuck strap ends or secure with bungee cords to prevent flapping.
- Walk the Trailer: Roll the trailer a few feet to simulate road movement. Recheck everything.
This takes five minutes but ensures your Goldwing stays put. I also stop after 10-20 miles to recheck straps, as they can settle.
Tips for Safe Transport
Hauling a Goldwing is more than just tying it down. Here are extra tips I’ve learned:
- Drive Smoothly: Avoid sharp turns or sudden stops. I drive like I’m carrying fragile cargo.
- Cover the Bike: Use a breathable motorcycle cover to protect from debris. I learned this after a gravel road chipped my paint.
- Check Trailer Weight Rating: Ensure your trailer can handle the Goldwing’s 900 pounds plus gear. My trailer is rated for 2,000 pounds.
- Use a Spotter: When loading, have a friend guide you. It’s saved me from misaligning the bike.
- Carry Spares: Pack extra straps and bungees. I’ve had a strap break, and a spare was a lifesaver.
These habits make transport stress-free and keep your Goldwing safe.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
I’ve made plenty of mistakes hauling my Goldwing. Here’s what to watch out for:
- Using Cheap Straps: Thin straps can snap under the Goldwing’s weight. Stick to heavy-duty ones.
- Tying to Handlebars: This can bend them or stress the steering. Always use the triple tree or frame.
- Over-Compressing Suspension: Too much tension damages forks or shocks. Compress just enough to stabilize.
- Leaving Straps Loose: Slack lets the bike shift. Tighten evenly and check often.
- Ignoring Plastic Panels: Strapping over fairings can crack them. Remove side covers for frame access.
Avoiding these keeps your bike safe and your wallet happy.
Alternative Tie-Down Methods
Over the years, I’ve seen other Goldwing owners use different setups. Here are a few I’ve tried or considered:
- Tank Straps: These loop under the gas tank for a central anchor. I tried them once, but they’re tricky to install on the 2007 model.
- Crash Bar Straps: Some straps are attached to the engine guards. I avoid this—they’re not as strong as the frame.
- Canyon Dancer Bar Harness: This grips the handlebars for front tie-downs. I don’t recommend it for Goldwings due to handlebar stress.
- Custom Brackets: Bolt-on tie-down brackets are my favorite alternative. They’re secure and easy to use, but require installation.
Stick to the frame-and-triple-tree method unless you’ve got brackets. It’s the safest for the 2007 Goldwing.
My Personal Experience
One of my favorite trips was hauling my Goldwing to a rally in Sturgis. I used a flatbed trailer with a Condor chock and four ratchet straps. The bike didn’t budge over 1,000 miles, even on rough roads. But I’ve also had close calls—like when a cheap strap frayed mid-trip. Checking it early saved my bike. Every haul teaches me something new, and I hope my lessons help you avoid my mistakes.
Conclusion
Tying down a 2007 Honda Goldwing for transport isn’t just about slapping on some straps—it’s about protecting your pride and joy. With the right gear, careful prep, and a solid tie-down technique, you can haul your Goldwing anywhere with confidence. From loading it onto the trailer to securing the front and rear, each step matters. Double-check your setup, drive smoothly, and avoid common pitfalls to keep your bike safe.
I’ve loved every mile I’ve spent with my Goldwing, whether riding or hauling it to new adventures. I hope this guide makes your transport experience smooth and stress-free. Load up, strap down, and get ready for your next ride!
FAQs
What kind of straps should I use for my 2007 Honda Goldwing?
Use heavy-duty ratchet straps with at least 1,500-pound breaking strength. I prefer 1-inch-wide braided nylon straps for durability.
Can I tie down my Goldwing using the handlebars?
No, avoid the handlebars. They can bend or stress the steering. Use the lower triple tree or frame for secure anchor points.
Do I need a wheel chock to transport my Goldwing?
A wheel chock isn’t mandatory but highly recommended. It keeps the bike upright and stable, making tie-downs easier.
How much should I compress the Goldwing’s suspension?
Compress the front and rear suspension about 30-40%. Tighten straps enough to stabilize the bike without bottoming out the shocks.
Can I transport my Goldwing without removing side panels?
You can, but removing side covers gives access to stronger frame points. Strapping over plastic panels risks cracking them.
How often should I check straps during transport?
Check straps before starting, after 10-20 miles, and at every stop. They can loosen due to road vibrations.