Hey there! If you’re thinking about putting in a bathtub yourself, you’re in for a rewarding project. I’ve tackled this job a couple of times in my own home, and let me tell you, it’s a mix of hard work, a little patience, and a whole lot of satisfaction when you’re soaking in that shiny new tub. Whether you’re upgrading your bathroom or replacing an old, grimy tub, this guide is packed with everything I’ve learned. I’ll walk you through each step, share some tips I wish I’d known, and help you avoid common pitfalls. By the end, you’ll feel confident to take on this home improvement adventure. Let’s dive in!
Why Install a Bathtub Yourself?
When I decided to install my first bathtub, I wasn’t just looking to save money—though that was a big part of it. I wanted the pride of saying, “I did that!” Installing a bathtub can cost anywhere from $1,000 to $5,000 if you hire a pro, depending on where you live in the USA and the complexity of the job. Doing it yourself can cut that down to just the cost of materials, which is usually $300 to $1,500 for a standard tub and supplies. Plus, you get to pick every detail, from the tub style to the fixtures, and make it exactly how you want it.
But it’s not just about the money. There’s something special about transforming your bathroom with your own hands. It’s a project that makes your space feel personal. That said, it’s not a walk in the park. You’ll need some basic plumbing and carpentry skills, or at least a willingness to learn. I’ll share what worked for me and help you decide if this is the right DIY for you.
Choosing the Right Bathtub
Before I even touched a wrench, I spent hours picking the perfect tub. It’s tempting to grab the cheapest one, but trust me, this is where you want to think long-term. Here’s what I considered:
- Material: I went with an acrylic tub because it’s lightweight, holds heat well, and is easy to clean. Cast iron is super durable but heavy, and fiberglass is budget-friendly but can scratch easily.
- Size: Measure your space carefully. Standard tubs are 60 inches long, 30 inches wide, and 14-16 inches deep. I made sure my tub fit through the bathroom door—don’t skip this step!
- Style: Alcove tubs (three walls, one open side) are common for small bathrooms. Freestanding tubs are gorgeous but need more space and plumbing work.
- Features: I chose a tub with a built-in overflow drain and a slip-resistant bottom. If you want jets or soaking depth, factor that in.
I found my tub at a home improvement store for about $400. Online retailers and local suppliers are great too, but always check reviews and warranty details. Once you’ve got your tub, you’re ready to start prepping.
Gathering Tools and Materials
I learned the hard way that having the right tools makes all the difference. Here’s what I used for my bathtub installation:
| Tool/Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Tape measure | To measure the space and tub |
| Level | To ensure the tub sits evenly |
| Screwdriver and wrench | For securing fittings and drains |
| Hacksaw or pipe cutter | To cut pipes to size |
| Plumbing tape (Teflon) | To seal pipe threads |
| Silicone caulk and caulk gun | For sealing edges |
| Shims | To level the tub |
| Cement board and screws | For reinforcing walls |
| Tile adhesive and grout | For finishing the surround |
| Safety gear (gloves, goggles) | To stay safe while working |
You’ll also need a drain kit, P-trap, and any fixtures like faucets or showerheads. I spent about $150 on supplies beyond the tub. If you don’t already own tools, you might need to budget a bit more. Check your local hardware store or rent tools to save cash.
Preparing the Bathroom
Before I could even think about bringing in the new tub, I had to get the bathroom ready. This part feels like a big cleanup, but it’s crucial. Here’s how I did it:
First, I turned off the water supply to the bathroom. Look for the shut-off valve near the tub or at your home’s main water line. Then, I drained the pipes by opening the faucet. Safety first—double-check the water’s off before you start.
Next, I removed the old tub. If you’re replacing one, this can be messy. I used a screwdriver to take off the drain and overflow covers, then disconnected the plumbing. The tub itself was heavy, so I asked a friend to help me lift it out. If you’re working alone, consider cutting the old tub into pieces with a reciprocating saw (wear goggles!). Dispose of it properly—check your local dump or recycling rules.
With the old tub gone, I inspected the floor and walls. My subfloor had some water damage, so I replaced a few boards with plywood. I also checked the studs for rot. If you find damage, fix it now to avoid bigger problems later. I used a level to make sure the floor was even, adding shims where needed.
Finally, I cleaned the area thoroughly. Dust and debris can mess up your new installation, so take the time to vacuum and wipe everything down. This prep work took me a full day, but it set me up for success.
Installing the New Bathtub
Now comes the fun part—putting in the new tub! I was nervous at first, but breaking it down into steps made it manageable. Here’s how I did it:
- Dry Fit the Tub: I placed the tub in the alcove to check the fit. It’s easier to make adjustments now than after plumbing’s connected. I used a level to ensure it was even, adding shims under the base if needed. The tub should slope slightly toward the drain for proper drainage—about 1/8 inch per foot.
- Secure the Tub: My acrylic tub had a base that needed to be set in a thin layer of mortar for stability. I mixed a small batch of mortar, spread it on the floor, and carefully lowered the tub into place. For cast iron or fiberglass tubs, follow the manufacturer’s instructions—some just need screws or clips to secure them to the studs.
- Connect the Plumbing: This was the trickiest part for me. I attached the drain kit first, following the instructions that came with it. The overflow pipe and P-trap connect to your existing drain line. I used a pipe cutter to trim pipes to size and sealed all joints with plumbing tape. Double-check for leaks by running a little water through the drain.
- Install the Faucet and Fixtures: I mounted the faucet and showerhead to the wall, connecting them to the water supply lines. If your tub has pre-drilled holes for a faucet, follow those specs. I used silicone caulk to seal around the fixtures for a watertight finish.
- Test Everything: Before moving on, I turned the water back on and tested the drain and faucet. I found a small leak in the drain connection, so I tightened it and added more plumbing tape. Don’t skip this step—it’s easier to fix leaks now.
This part took me about six hours, mostly because I was double-checking everything. If you’re new to plumbing, go slow and don’t be afraid to watch a few online tutorials for extra confidence.
Finishing the Surround
Once the tub was in place, I focused on making it look polished. The surround—the walls around the tub—needs to be waterproof and stylish. I chose ceramic tiles for a classic look, but you can use acrylic panels or even waterproof paint for a budget option. Here’s how I tackled it:
I started by installing cement board on the walls around the tub. This creates a sturdy, water-resistant surface for tiles. I cut the boards to fit with a utility knife, then screwed them into the studs. Make sure the boards are flush with the tub’s edge.
Next, I applied tile adhesive with a notched trowel and set the tiles in a simple grid pattern. I used spacers to keep the lines even. After the adhesive dried (about 24 hours), I applied grout between the tiles and sealed the edges with silicone caulk. This keeps water from seeping behind the tub.
The surround took me two days, mostly because of drying times. If you’re not tiling, acrylic panels are faster to install but can cost more. Whatever you choose, make sure it’s sealed tight to prevent mold.
Adding the Final Touches
With the tub and surround done, I was almost there. But those little details make a big difference. I installed baseboards around the tub’s edge to hide any gaps. I also added a shower curtain rod and a nice curtain for privacy. If you’re going for a luxury vibe, consider a glass shower door, but that’s pricier.
I also took time to clean the tub thoroughly and polish the fixtures. A sparkling tub feels like a reward for all your hard work. Finally, I tested everything again—water flow, drainage, and seals—to make sure it was perfect.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
I made a few blunders along the way, and I want to help you skip them. First, don’t rush the measurements. A tub that’s too big or small for your space is a headache to fix. Second, don’t skimp on sealing. Water is sneaky, and even a tiny gap can lead to mold or damage. Third, don’t ignore the instructions that come with your tub and fixtures—they’re there for a reason. And finally, don’t work alone if the tub is heavy. I strained my back trying to move mine solo before I called a friend for help.
Maintaining Your New Bathtub
Once your tub is in, you’ll want to keep it looking great. I clean mine weekly with a non-abrasive cleaner to prevent soap scum buildup. Acrylic tubs are easy to maintain, but avoid harsh chemicals that can dull the finish. For cast iron, watch for chips that can rust. Check the caulk every few months and reapply if it’s cracking. A little upkeep goes a long way.
Why This Project Was Worth It
Looking back, installing my bathtub was one of the most rewarding projects I’ve tackled. It wasn’t just about saving money—though I saved over $2,000 compared to hiring a pro. It was about creating a space that feels like mine. Every time I step into that tub, I’m reminded of the effort I put in. It’s not just a bathtub; it’s a story of hard work and a little courage.
If you’re on the fence, I’d say go for it. Take your time, follow the steps, and don’t be afraid to ask for help if you need it. You don’t need to be a pro to get pro results. With some planning and elbow grease, you’ll have a bathtub you love and a bathroom that feels brand new. So, grab your tools and get started—you’ve got this!
FAQs
How long does it take to install a bathtub?
It depends on your experience and the complexity of the job. For me, the whole process took about three days, including prep, installation, and tiling. If you’re new to DIY, plan for a weekend or two to account for learning and drying times.
Can I install a bathtub by myself?
Yes, but it’s easier with help, especially for lifting heavy tubs. I did most of the work alone but needed a friend to move the tub. If you’re comfortable with basic plumbing and carpentry, you can handle it with patience.
What’s the best material for a bathtub?
I chose acrylic because it’s lightweight and durable. Cast iron is great for longevity but heavy. Fiberglass is cheaper but less durable. Think about your budget, style, and how much maintenance you’re willing to do.
How much does it cost to install a bathtub?
If you do it yourself, expect to spend $300 to $1,500 on the tub and supplies. Hiring a professional can cost $1,000 to $5,000, depending on your location and the job’s complexity. I saved a lot by doing it myself!
Do I need a permit to install a bathtub?
In some parts of the USA, you might need a permit for plumbing changes. I checked with my local building department, and they didn’t require one for a simple replacement. Call your city or county office to confirm.
How do I know if my floor can support a new bathtub?
Most modern homes can handle standard tubs, but heavy cast iron ones need extra support. I checked my subfloor for damage and added plywood for stability. If you’re unsure, consult a contractor to assess your floor’s strength.